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KMID : 0604520080340040275
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
2008 Volume.34 No. 4 p.275 ~ p.286
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Antioxidative and Antiaging Effects of Platycarya strobilacea Extract and Clinical Trial
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Park Soo-Nam
Yang Hee-Jung
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Abstract
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In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidative, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of Platycarya strobilacea bark extracts. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity () of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea was in the order: 50% ethanol extract () < deglycosylated aglycone fraction () < ethyl acetate fraction (). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities () of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts on ROS generated in -EDTA/ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was ethyl acetate fraction (OSC50, ) < 50% ethanol extract () < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (). The deglycosylated aglycone fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethanol extract (50%) suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect (, 717.27 min at ). The inhibitory effect of Platycarya strobilacea extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. The inhibitory effect () on tyrosinase of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50% ethanol extract () < ethyl acetate fraction () < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (). Also, The inhibitory effect of elastase () of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50% ethanol extract () < ethyl acetate fraction () < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of Platycarya strobilacea extracts was formulated. The skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, and the whitening effects were investigated after topical application of the cream. The skin hydration of cream containing extract was increased by than the placebo cream, transepidermal water loss was decreased. The cream containing extract suppressed the melanogenesis of skin by 9.55% than the placebo cream. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by anti-oxidative activity and protect cellular membranes against ROS. The inhibitory effect on elastase and tyrosinase, and the increase of skin hydration and the whitening effect of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.
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KEYWORD
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Platycarya strobilacea, flavonoid, antioxidative activity, tyrosinase, cosmetics
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